A year ago I chronicled a somewhat bracing visit to the famous but off-limits and barricaded Potemkin Steps here in Odesa, Ukraine. My fleeting glimpse was cut short by an overzealous soldier who demanded a review of my phone’s photos.

This visit, I am glad to say, all barriers (and overzealous guards) are gone. Visitors ascend and descend the 192 granite steps at will – taking selfies with Odesa’s signature stairway is no longer a punishable offense. It’s a small thing in the grand scheme of the war, maybe, but still a heartening picture (literally) of progress. Keep an eye out for my stories from this trip during the coming weeks.