How Venetian artisans marry tradition and innovation

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Avedis Hadjian
Stefano Coluccio specializes in making mirrors in the style popularized by Jan van Eyck in his 1434 painting, “The Arnolfini Portrait.” The first mirrors in Venice were produced in the 14th century.

The crafts of glassmaking, bookbinding, and gondola-building have changed little over the centuries in this city, which is celebrating its 1,600th anniversary this year. Artisans ply their skills according to precise guild specifications that predate the Italian Renaissance. 

“There are rules that govern color combinations and proportions,” says Stefano Coluccio, explaining why he does not accept special commissions for his mirrors. 

Yet for all the adherence to tradition, the 1,000 or so artisans in Venice also find ways to innovate within the parameters of their craft. For example, while gondolas have been in existence since the 11th century, their design has evolved in subtle yet significant ways. On a recent visit, shipwright Matteo Tamassia, whose gondolas can take a month or more to construct, discussed an improvement to the gunwale with a fellow boat-maker who dropped by.

That spirit of invention was on display as early as the 16th century. The story goes that in 1574 Henry III of Valois, king of France and Poland, attended a dinner at the Arsenale shipyard, where he watched as a galley was assembled within the hour – complete with ropes, sails, oars, and armament. The Arsenale’s efficient assembly-line process predates Henry Ford’s by more than 300 years.

As the pandemic dried up tourism, the artisans of Venice have continued to pursue their craft. Shipwrights are still taking orders for new gondolas. Bookbinders are still producing the notebooks that made Venice famous back in the Gutenberg era. Mask-makers are devising fabulous creations even as the Venice Carnival was canceled this year. Centuries of changing fortunes have fostered patience.

A common thread binds all these artisans: They keep experimenting, improving techniques, and introducing novelties – invisible to the untrained eye – to their ancient crafts. These arts are not just old; they are timeless. 

Avedis Hadjian
Master bookbinder Paolo Olbi cuts cardboard as he begins work on a notebook. His handmade notebooks sell to a select clientele throughout the world.
Avedis Hadjian
Paolo Olbi (on the left) and illustrator Anna Scovacricchi experiment with a technique to stamp velvet covers at Antica Stamperia Armena.
Avedis Hadjian
Mask-maker Gualtiero Dall’Osto wears the Red Bull mask, one of his most distinctive creations.
Avedis Hadjian
Master craftsman Simone Giordani at Barovier & Toso makes the glass arm of a chandelier.
Avedis Hadjian
Shipwright Matteo Tamassia works on a gondola. The trademark vessels have plied the waters of Venice’s famed canals since the 11th century.
Avedis Hadjian
Massimiliano Ballarin examines a modern chandelier in Barovier & Toso’s showroom. Founded in 1295, the glassmaking company produces contemporary as well as classical lighting.
Avedis Hadjian
Squero di San Trovaso, the boatyard of shipwright Lorenzo della Toffola, offers maintenance and repair services for gondolas and other boats.
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