Chess is king to these Indian villagers. The game led them out of ‘so much darkness.’

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Ahmer Khan
THE RIGHT DIRECTION: Francis Kachapilly plays chess in the village of Marottichal, India. He reflects, “Before we knew chess, many of us felt lost.”

In Marottichal, a quaint village in the lush hills of southwestern India, chess is more than a game. It is the quiet heartbeat of a community that found its future in 64 squares.

For a long time, Marottichal was known for its scenic hiking routes and waterfalls. But a few decades ago, the village fell into a spiral of alcohol addiction and gambling. It took the actions of a soft-spoken tea stall owner, Charaliyil Unnikrishnan, to turn around this community of 6,000 people. Today, chessboards are found in every home, on porches, under trees, and, of course, in the unassuming tea shop where it all started.

With a gentle smile creasing his face, Mr. Unnikrishnan reflects on the village’s transformation. “There was so much darkness,” he says quietly. “But chess. ... It brought us together.”

Why We Wrote This

A few decades ago, the village of Marottichal fell into a spiral of alcohol addiction and gambling. The actions of a soft-spoken tea stall owner turned the community around.

As he patiently taught the game to curious villagers, the sound of clinking bottles gave way to the soft clack of chess pieces. The pastime gave people purpose – and challenged them.

“Where other villages might have 50 chess players, we have 4,500,” says the president of Marottichal’s chess association, Baby John, his voice tinged with pride. 

Now, the village is pushing to integrate chess into the school curriculum. Several young players from Marottichal already compete internationally and within India.

Mr. John, sipping tea as he moves a pawn across the board, says that Mr. Unnikrishnan “gave us our life back. We owe him everything.”

Ahmer Khan
CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD: Charaliyil Unnikrishnan, a central figure in the village’s chess transformation, has taught nearly 1,000 residents how to play the game.
Ahmer Khan
GAME CHANGER: Marottichal, nestled in the hills of southwestern Kerala state, used to be known for drinking and gambling. Now, it’s India’s “chess village.”
Ahmer Khan
GAMERS: Chess knows no age or gender in Marottichal, as men, women, and children all gather for matches. The head of the village’s chess association says three-quarters of the 6,000 villagers engage in the pastime.
Ahmer Khan
SURELY YOU CHESS: A boy focuses intently as he plays a chess match at a school in the village.

For more visual storytelling that captures communities, traditions, and cultures around the globe, visit The World in Pictures.

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